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Cornwall: Seafood and eat it at Newlyn fish festival

Cornwall: Seafood and eat it at Newlyn fish festival

Enjoy a fishy in a dishy in Newlyn, Cornwall, where delicious seafood is always the catch of the day

 

By James Cabooter


Cornwall, travel, star, lifestyle, Newlyn Harbour, Fish FestivalThe thriving and picturesque Newlyn Harbour

SEAFOOD lovers can forget traip­sing all the way to Boston, Alaska or Australia to get their fix.

The finest culinary ocean delights can be sampled much closer to home at the Newlyn Fish Festival.

Just a stone’s throw from Penzance in south-west Cornwall, this beautiful, rugged port celebrates the heritage of traditional fishing and its reputation as a top foodie destination on Monday.

It’s the largest event of its kind, boasting cookery and fishing demonstrations, boat races, games and live Cornish music, all in aid of raising vital money for the Royal National Mission To Deep Sea Fishermen.

Looking out onto the Atlantic Ocean, this picturesque harbour will be immersed in exotic flav­ours ranging from Afro-Caribbean mackerel and Thai crab cakes to Cornish fish curry and barbecued lobster.

Also on offer will be gourmet ice cream, paella and local cheeses.

Witness the crowning of the Cornish Fishmonger Of The Year and see who wins the coveted Golden Pilchard in the Lugger Rowing World Championships. Hear sea shanties brought to life by local storytellers and, for the little sprats, there’s the ever-popular stinky Fishy Trail to follow.

The steep town offers a wide variety of B&B acc­ommodation but we stayed a mile up the coast at the Hotel Penzance.

This place boasts magnificent views towards another Cornish icon, St Michael’s Mount – the rocky island topped by a medieval church and castle that can only be accessed by a causeway or by boat at high tide.

An oasis between the hustle and bustle of local ghost tours and an old pirate watering hole, the hotel’s pièce de résistance is its award-winning rest­aurant, The Bay.

Here you can savour mouth-watering local spec­ialities like seared Cornish scallops in langoustine mousse or pan-fried red mullet with saffron arancini.

Food lovers must also check out another hidden gem back in Newlyn called the Tolcarne Inn.

This homely harbour pub’s kitchen is run by Michelin-starred chef Ben Tunnicliffe, who masterminded a succulent and elegant evening meal of grilled monkfish with violet artichokes. This is world-beating cuisine at pub prices.

Cleanse your palate with a visit to Jelberts Ices over the square for the best clotted ice cream.

But it’s not all about gorgeous grub. Integral to the local economy, the Newlyn Fish Festival sees fishermen unite to preserve fish stock and maintain their livelihood.

The idea is to show off the industry to the wider public, who perhaps know little about commercial fishing or its problems.

And with new boat and fishing regulations constantly being introduced, the fisherman’s life is as challenging as ever.

We experienced first hand the blood and sweat required to make a living from the ocean when skipper Mario Perry invited us aboard his boat, the Emma Louise, for a day’s crab fishing.

 

St Michael's Mount off the coast of CornwallSt Michael's Mount off the coast of Cornwall


“The steep town offers a wide variety of B&B acc­ommodation but we stayed a mile up the coast at the Hotel Penzance”

He and his crew of four young Latvian seamen work tirelessly in all weathers, seven days a week, reeling in miles of crab nets from around the coast.

After a 16-hour day, the boat returned bloated with more than 2,000 crabs for unloading before getting ready to do it all again the next day.

Mario and his team are among the locals demonstrating their craft at the festival.

Fishing isn’t all Newlyn has to offer.

The creative arts thrive in this tiny community, with artists and galleries existing in the area for decades.

There’s an array of lovely crafts and jewellery shops and the modern Newlyn Art Gallery has a collection of contemporary art. The School of Art offers short courses.

If you’re spending longer in the area then it’s worth browsing nearby village Mousehole (pronounce Mawzel), named for the mouse-shaped hole in the rock face below that once allowed smuggling pirates an escape route from the Royal Navy.

Also famed for children’s book The Mousehole Cat, this is the quintessential arty Cornish community.

Winding stone streets are littered with studios and cafes that overlook a sandy harbour. Just along the coast lies the stunning Porthcurno beach and above it the world-famous Minack, Cornwall’s theatre under the stars.

Visit by day to explore the sub- tropical gardens or by night to enjoy a performance in the open-air theatre.

With Land’s End offering a combination of epic gnarly coastline and family attractions, plus the chi-chi charm of sophisticated St Ives a 25-minute drive away, this corner of Cornwall is anything but fishy.

FACT FILE

Newlyn Fish Festival opens on Monday from 9am to 5pm. Admission is £5 and under-16s go free. See newlynfishfestival.org.uk for more information.

Rooms at Hotel Penzance start at £155 a night B&B for a classic double. See hotelpenzance.com.